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ETHIOPIA - THE SOUTH

A travel report - Part 4

03.06.2019 - Dorze People - Hike to the Dorsso waterfall - Market - Tej-Bar
(26.09.2011 according to the Ethiopian calendar)

Ethiopia - The South As announced yesterday, our driver has his day off today and we will explore the surrounding area on foot. At least four hours are estimated for the hike, if we don't pause too long in between. But we already know, that if we want to visit the market and enjoy the Tej, it will take longer.
It rains all night. We actually love this beautiful sound in the leaves and on the roof of our hut, but the closer the morning comes, the more worried we become. After all, we would have to throw our daily schedule upside down if it doesn't stop raining.

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Image 237 - 240: Views from the Dorze Lodge shortly before sunrise

When the daylight slowly gets brighter outside, the big cinema show begins over the landscape around Lake Abaja and Lake Chamo. The rain has almost stopped and the sun is still hidden behind the mountains. The natural spectacle changes every few minutes and again and again new pillows of cloud roll over the mountain, revealing new views or covering them up again. In addition, the light is constantly changing, as the sun, which has not yet appeared, naturally rises higher and higher. This creates new impressions of the landscape.

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Image 241 - 246: Views from the Dorze Lodge shortly before sunrise

The animal world is of course already awake and accentuates the scenery with a wide variety of voices and chants. Among old friends like monkeys, ore ravens and pigeons, but mostly we get a polyphonic and completely new background noise.

Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia Dorze Lodge - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Shererite - Ethiopia Dorze Lodge - Shererite - Ethiopia

Image 247 - 250: Interior views of our bungalow
Image 249 + 250: Visit at morning dawn - A poisonous "Shererite", as the locals call them. But we only find out in the evening.

In the meantime we have uninvited visitors in the hut who do not make any noises themselves, but the presence of the uninvited visitors can cause the hosts to make very loud noises. ;-) We actually have bug spray with us, but I'm sorry for this stately species and we don't have to kill everything if we can prevent it. But I don't want to catch them either. That's too much even for me. So let's leave them next to the light switch ... we still have enough others. Let us hope that the adage, "The morning spider brings sorrow and grief" will not haunt us today. After all, we left the spider alive.

At breakfast we are a bit annoyed about the emotionless behavior of the boys from the lodge, but the nice thing is that the weather is getting better and better. At least there is no more rain. Unfortunately, we almost have to chase after every part of breakfast and try to scrape off the remains jam from five different jam jars. Without a suitable spoon this is a lot of fun. But at least the coffee is good when it finally arrives almost after breakfast. Somehow the guys all look like they said too much "Jo Jo Jo Jo Jo Jo - Joooooo" during the night (see previous day).

At around 8:30 am we are finally ready to go ... unfortunately without Rainer, he actually forgot to take the right shoes with him. He can't do anything with his Sunday shoes today and the weather is too uncomfortable to walk barefoot. After all, we are also at an altitude of 2,732 meters. Because this is the height of the nearby town of Cencia (Chencha). So Rainer decides to enjoy the view from the lodge for a day.

Dorze - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Ethiopia Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Image 251 - 256: Hike from the Dorze Lodge to the Dorsso waterfall

Starting from the lodge, we hike to north. In addition to Mastu, we are accompanied by a boy from the lodge who, bored, carries a few bottles of water in a plastic bag. We probably won't need them. We always have a bottle with us anyway. But we can also give the water bottles from the lodge to people we meet on our way.
We initially hike for over an hour in thick fog, over muddy and stony paths, through forests and loose settlement areas. Unfortunately, we can only guess what an idyllic landscape is hidden behind the fog and we cannot take a single photo. Rainer made the right decision. Up to this point he could have disposed of his shoes twice. Somehow our shoes are getting bigger and heavier. The mud is very stubborn and just won't let us go. You have to peel it off your shoes every few hundred meters. But at least the waterproofing spray does what it says on the tin and your feet stay dry.
The walk is tiring and we are really happy when the first gaps in the fog finally appear and something of the landscape can be seen.

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Ethiopia Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Image 257 - 262: Hike to the Dorsso waterfall
Image 260 - 262: The tree trunk bridges are covered with mats made from Enset leaves. It's almost like playing the lottery, because it doesn't always withstand loads. ;-)

This hike should actually say: "The path is the goal." But at least it's not raining. Every now and then we meet locals in the fog, who apparently make fun of us, because we always hear the laughter of women near us, which we couldn't hear in the distance. Yes, we would prefer to be on the road with better weather conditions, but that's the way it is, because tomorrow we'll be somewhere else again.

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Image 263: Traditional Dorze houses near Cencia (Chencha)

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Image 264: The Holo Angle Mikaheal Church, at least that's what the card says. ;-)
Presumably the Holy Angel Mikael Church is meant by this.
Click on the link and follow the hiking route.

Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Image 265: A sacred spring about 20 minutes later. Click on the link and follow the route.

About half an hour later further north, we reach the main road, which comes as a sand track from the center of Cencia from the north-east. We meet a large, wildly gesticulating crowd of over 100 people who are surrounding a police officer. As we learn, a bag thief has just been caught and the police called in. Apparently such crimes are still classified as very criminal in the country and therefore cause a lot of excitement. In town, apart from the person concerned and a few witnesses, nobody would be interested in the matter. At the spectacle one could almost believe that the thief had stolen from everyone there.
We prefer to go further, now follow the main road to the west and leave it again shortly before it turns south. We hike further west in the direction of the Dorsso waterfall on barely visible paths, through an agricultural area with lush green pastures and red-brown fields.

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Image 266 - 272: On the other side of the sand road to the west.

We still have about 20 minutes to walk to the waterfall. A few youngsters are literally on our heels. I don't like it at all, if I don't know what's going on behind my back. So we play the game of "letting them overtake" several times. As soon as they have overtaken us, they sit down on the grass and wait for us again. We are annoyed, but then all of a sudden they run up a hill and disappear ... at least that's what we thought.
Our local guide from the lodge unfortunately shows no commitment in many aspects of the hike. Often we have to find the right path for ourselves if we don't want to walk through water and mud like him. Then he always waits bored on the other side and chews bored on a blade of grass. Mastu takes it with humor and just shakes his head.

Dorsso Waterfall - Cencia - Ethiopia Dorsso Waterfall - Cencia - Ethiopia

Image 273 + 274: Arrived at the Dorsso waterfall

When we arrive at the waterfall, a strong and cold wind with lots of water droplets blows towards us. The 31 m high waterfall lies at an altitude of 2,660 m above sea level. Bathing weather is not exactly either, although we are a bit heated up from the hike. We keep hearing rumbling in the gorge. Stones rumble down the rock face and splash into the water. Now we also know why the youthful gang ran up the mountain, it's they who throw stones into the ravine. So our feeling has not disappointed us about these youngsters. Our local companion, on the other hand, only looks tiredly at what is happening and shows no reaction. He can't necessarily do something about it, but at least he could have made a strict statement in the local language. This tour guide is really not helpful to us. We decide to leave the place as soon as possible before one of these projectiles injures us.

Plant at Dorsso Waterfall - Cencia - Ethiopia Plant near Dorsso Waterfall - Cencia - Ethiopia

Image 275: Edible berries in the bushes by the waterfall
Image 276: Ethiopian Cobra lily / Arisaema flavum

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Image 277 - 284: On the way back the same way as we came

We go back the same way until the main road from Cencia to Arba Minch. The last fog has finally cleared and sometimes the sun can even be seen. For the rest of the way back we stay on the main road. Nevertheless, we still have about 10 kilometers to go to the Dorze Lodge. From this point of view, the schedule outlined at the beginning can no longer be kept at all. We are surprised, because we haven't dawdled that much. Even if the better weather improves our mood again, maybe we should take some relief now. Mastu apparently just had the same idea and suggests ordering a Bajaj for the rest of the way.

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Dorze Land - Cencia - Ethiopia

Image 285 - 290: On the main road from Cencia (Chencha) towards Dorze Lodge

Obviously, getting a Bajaj on the endless sand road is not as easy as in the cities. Mastu has to order one by cell phone. It takes some time until the Bajaj slowly approaches us, while we can finally enjoy the fog-free landscape. Finally the curtain of our taxi opens and we can sit down on the back seat. We are now much faster than on foot, but we are now shaken vigorously on the bumpy ride, still better than walking another 10 kilometers on foot.
We do not drive directly to the Dorze Lodge, because a large village market is being held about 2 kilometers from the destination. Of course we shouldn't miss that. Markets are always very interesting and you should take as many as possible with you. Every market is different.

Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Image 291: Google Map - Marketplace south of Cencia (center) - Simply click on the image or link and continue exploring the location.

Market near Chencha - Dorze land - Ethiopia

Image
292: Village market a few kilometers south of Cencia (Chencha)

Before we devote ourselves to the hustle and bustle of the market, we first go to the Tej bar on the edge of the market plaza. Tej (pronounced Tedsch) is a traditional Ethiopian alcoholic drink. Since the main ingredient is honey, it's also called honey wine. After fermentation, the brew has an alcohol content between 6-11 percent. According to the legend, the consumption of the drink is associated with the meeting of the Queen of Sheba and King Solomon. Makeda once had this royal drink in her luggage and enjoyed it extensively with King Solomon, and 9 months later their son Menelik was born. As is known, he became the first king of the Solomonic dynasty Ethiopia. In addition, alcoholic beverages made from honey were once considered sacred.

Image 293: In the Tej bar
Tej-Bar

Tej-Bar - Near Cencia - Ethiopia

Image 294: Tej-Bar south of Cencia

The common people were not allowed to produce and enjoy it, which is why in Ethiopia until the 19th century the consumption of Tejs was reserved only for the nobility. The shape of the typical drinking vessels has been preserved from this time until today (compare picture 2.004 in "Ethiopia Again" - part 15 or picture 1.342 in part 11). Currently, however, this does not prevent anyone from having the drink filled into other vessels.
After we have also emptied a few "vases" of this delicious drink and all together have eaten two large plates of Injera with mutton ragout, we now want to explore the market. Unfortunately, the beautiful weather says goodbye before I have finished my video shoot and the clouds envelop the scenery in thick fog again, so that it is no longer possible to take beautiful photos.


Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Image 295 - 301: The smoking club :-)

True to the motto "After dinner you should smoke ...", Mastu spontaneously joins a local smoking club and takes a deep drag from the extremely long-stemmed pipe. What old women and men can tolerate, he should also be able to do ... that's what he thought, but he must have been very wrong with his assessment. The group looks expectantly at Mastu and is extremely amused when Mastu is breathless. We don't even want to test it. I usually like to take part in every "bullshit", but I am not comfortable with these black balls that smell like cow dung. We do not know exactly what is contained in this black drug.

Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Market near Cencia - Dorze Land - Ethiopia

Image 302 + 303: Maybe ensete dough (?) And potatoes



Video: Tej bar and market bustle

At the edge of the market there are also football tables, another bar and a sound system from whose speakers you can even hear Ethiopian reggae. Also included "Eyob Mekonnen", which we would like to remind you of at this point.

Eyob wEyob was born on October 12th, 1975 in Jijiga in the Somali region in eastern Ethiopia. His father Yalem Mekonnen was an officer in the Ethiopian army during the Ogaden War, which particularly inspired Eyob to spread peaceful messages in his songs. At a young age he moved to Addis and attended school there. He joined the reggae band Zion, which became a fixture in Addis Ababa clubs. In their music they combined elements of modern Amharic music with those of Oromo and Reggae. Eyob Mekonnen - Erotalehu - Album 2017

In 2010 he released his first solo album "Man Ende Kal". After 2012 he also started touring abroad, which led him to Canada, the Netherlands and also to Germany. Unfortunately, Eyob suffered a stroke on August 13, 2013 and fell into a coma. Donations were collected for his treatment and he was transferred to a hospital in Nairobi on August 17th, where he died of complications on August 18th. His posthumous album "Erotatalehu" (picture above) presents with 14 songs a significant increase over his debut album. Unfortunately, we will never know how things would have gone on with his music. R.I.P. Eyob Mekonnen!



Eyob Mekonnen - Semahuachew (Erotalehu)


Eyob Mekonnen - Wede Enate Bet (Erotalehu)

Since the visibility in the market is getting worse and worse because of the fog, we decide to visit the Tej-Bar again and wait a bit there. Maybe we'll be lucky and the clouds will disappear again.
The multi-room location is still full of people and the Tej flows freely. But it tastes really good and costs next to nothing (5 birr). This is now also being noticed by numerous women who come here without a male companion.
As is common in many traditional Ethiopian restaurants, they also have their own butcher, where you can choose the meat you want. At the same time, the butcher also cuts it into the right size. So everyone knows what's on their plate.


Image 304: Inside the Tej bar
Tej-Bar

Fleischer in der Tej Bar - Ethiopia

Image 305: Butcher in the Tej bar

Tej Bar - Ethiopia

Tej Bar - Ethiopia

Tej Bar - Ethiopia

Image 306 - 308: It tastes good again in the Tej bar

Unfortunately, our hopes are not fulfilled because the view doesn't get any better even after a long wait and a lot of Tej enjoyment. In addition, it looks as if rain is coming, which we don't need at all, because we still have a few kilometers to go to the lodge. So we decide to leave and take a shortcut next to the main road through the forest. This starts right at the southern end of the market area and saves us a lot of meters and a lot of time. In our luggage we still have a couple of water bottles filled with Tej so that Rainer, who stayed in the lodge, can still enjoy the delicious drink.

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Image 309 - 314: "Cinema" again in the Dorze Lodge

We are lucky. The initially isolated raindrops are becoming increasingly rare, and when we arrive at the lodge after about 30 minutes at around 3:30 p.m., the sun actually comes out again. So we can end the day again with a beautiful view. The guys at the lodge offer to clean our muddy shoes and pants for a fee. Let's see how it works.

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Image 315 + 316: View of the restaurant area of the Dorze Lodge

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Image 317: The shoe and trouser washer

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Image 318 + 319: Dorze ceramics and bracelets

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Image 320 + 321: Dorze Lodge - View from the restaurant terrace of our bungalows. The smaller one is the one-person household. ;-)

The boys laundry didn't work that well. But no matter, the will counts. The profile of the soles is still completely filled with mud. Why should you also clean them, after all, they're not slippers. ;-) Even the mud on the trouser legs, the boys have probably noticed. The traces of dirt have become noticeably paler, but they now also take up a lot more space. So we do a little aftercare before we lay everything out to dry. Since we do this with a beautiful view, we also enjoy it.

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Dorze Lodge - Arba Minch - Ethiopia

Image 322 - 325: Slowly the shadows of the mountains are getting longer and the sun is disappearing behind our backs.

The time for dinner is approaching and with it the hope that we will get a decent open fire today after the wet and cold day. But we didn't take into account the extraordinary hard work of our boys. The restaurant's fireplace greets us just like it did last night, with a black, empty opening. I'm trying to order an appropriate fire. I would do it myself, but there is simply no wood available next to or near the fireplace. Only the boys at the lodge sit around, bored, and yawn in competition. The answer is extremely baffling. When it rained, you couldn't go to collect wood. After all, everything has gotten wet now. I beg your pardon?! Is there a hidden camera here somewhere? They have probably heard nothing of rainproof storage. I think our boys urgently need their own household or a real winter someday so that they can learn how to do business. The job at the lodge is probably not beneficial to them. So we are sitting in the semi-dark restaurant again and have to make warm thoughts. But Alex still has a secret weapon in the car that he brings to dinner. He actually organized a bottle of schnapps when we visited the Dorze village, which we can now mix a little with the lodge's hot tea. If that doesn't help, then we still have a few bottles of Tej. ;-)

We still have a question for the boys and show them the picture of our eight-legged pet, which, amazingly, was still sitting in the same place after our return. Now there is discussion and movement in the group. They have the same opinion. It's a poisonous Shererite, as they call her. This illegal bungalow resident must definitely be kicked out. The spider was obviously not thrown out, because when we return home there is a dark, muddy patch on the wall where the spider was previously sitting. I'm sorry about that now. Maybe I should have tried to catch her after all.

We will meet again tomorrow at this point when we travel to Konso via Arba Minch and visit the people of the same name in their village, which is under the protection of UNESCO. In addition, we will explore a sandstone formation, also known as "New York" by the locals.

Copyright: www.reggaestory.de
Photos: Marion & Peter Joachim
Text und Videos: Peter Joachim
English version: Gabriele Brown

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