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ETHIOPIA - THE SOUTH

A travel report - Part 8

06/07/2019 – From Jinka to the Banna Tribe and to Turmi
(09/30/2011 according to the Ethiopian calendar)

Ethiopia - The South Today it is time to change your accommodation. This is even further to the south, in the village of Turmi. For this we have to go back to Key Afer and there we meet the road to Turmi. The direct route is actually only about 120 km long, but on the way we hear about a traditional Banna wedding with a bull jump, which prompts us to take a long detour into rough terrain.
Our departure is scheduled for 9:30 a.m. So we have enough time to enjoy our breakfast in peace and quiet and let the view wander over the garden of the lodge from the tent terrace. We have already transported our luggage over the very difficult but beautiful-looking river stone pavement and deposited it at the parking lot. So we can relax and savor every minute on our terrace until Mastu and Alex arrive.

Eco-Omo Lodge - Jinka - Ethiopia

Image 654: Eco-Omo Lodge Jinka

We leave the lodge on time and drive towards Turmi through Jinka. At the end of the village there is the possibility to visit an Ari Village. The Ari or Aari make up the majority of the inhabitants of Jinka, where they live a little more modern than their relatives in the surrounding traditional villages. In Jinka, they usually have square houses with corrugated iron roofs. The traditional round buildings or thatched houses can almost only be seen here for granaries, chicken coops and similar uses. This walk in the village costs 1,000 birr for all of us. On the edge of the main street, next to the settlement, there are already some guides on the lookout for tourists. Actually, we prefer to do such explorations alone and take some presents for the people with us, but if Mastu already offers it, we of course accept it. Of course, we don't know how much of the money ends up with the villagers after the guides have satisfied themselves.

Areke Destillation - Jinka - Ethiopia

Image 655: Destillation of alcohol

The first stop on our tour is a traditional schnapps distillery run by many Ethiopians. We don't really feel like having a drink, and certainly not at this time. Areke or Areki is currently being produced here. This is distilled from a fermentation product made from powdered Gesho leaves (African buckthorn) and Bikil. The taste of the clear end result can be very different. They're family recipes. The alcohol content can also vary and be up to around 50%.
In addition to schnapps, you can also find all kinds of other home-brewed alcoholic drinks in Ethiopia such as Tella (beer), Tej (honey wine), Borde (based on various types of grain, lactic acid bacteria), Shamita (based on roasted barley flour, ground flaxseed, salt, spices), Cheka (base: various types of cereals and vegetables), Keribo (base: honey, sugar, cereals), Korefe (base: barley and Gesho leaves), Booka (base: honey, sugar, beef bladder) and others. We had recently been introduced to Tej at the Dorze Volk and enjoyed it. Anyone who would like to take a closer look at the various manufacturing processes can read the International Journal of Microbiology (only in English).

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Image 656 + 657: Tool forge

Furthermore, we see a small tool forge in the village that works under the simplest of conditions. All occupational safety inspectors in Germany please look the other way! Even in childhood and barefoot, people work on the forge fire here to make a wide variety of tools for market sale from scrap iron.

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Image 658 - 660: In the Ari Village of Jinka

In the meantime, some children have discovered us who will accompany us on our way. They are very happy to take hold of all the hands that are not busy at the moment. Anyone who is receptive to this can quickly put together a large kindergarten group. Mastu tries again and again to limit the rush and grimaces to chase them away. But that doesn't last long.
Almost all the crops they need for a living can be found in a confined space between the houses of the Ari. Including coffee, cassava, vegetables, mango trees, various types of bananas, spices and much more. In between all sorts of pets from chicken to beef. It's amazing how it works without damaging the crops.

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Pottery and woodwork.

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Hopse is international – do you remember? :-)

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Turn ropes out of plastic sack scraps.

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Pre-cultivation of crops on the farm.
Image 661 - 667: In the Ari Village of Jinka

The vast majority of the Ari are Christians. This can also be easily recognized by the crosses that are often seen on the neck and the paintings on the house facades. The children of the Ari of Jinka also get an education, which is more difficult in the traditional villages outside the city. However, not all children seem to take advantage of this offer here either. After all, today is only Friday early in the morning and the number of children in the village who could already go to school seems to us to be quite large.
The traditional way of life is not so easy to give up and many children are still involved in a wide variety of family support tasks.

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Image 668 - 673: The children like to pose in front of the camera and are happy when they can see the result on the camera right away.

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Image 674 + 675: Laborious sorting out of grain.

In the village we can also watch the preparation of injera, without which nothing works in Ethiopia. We have reported on this national dish many times before. Today we finally see the baking process on a large ceramic plate, where the dough is applied in a circle from the outside in and later covered until it is cooked. The perfectly manufactured ceramic plate, which is as smooth as a mirror and without any flaws, is extremely impressive. It's hard to believe that these are made manually.

Injera - Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Injera - Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia Injera - Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Injera - Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Injera - Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Image 676 - 680: Injera baking.

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Ari Village - Jinka - Ethiopia

Image 681 - 683: Children in the Ari Village of Jinka

Image 684: Wooden grain mortar

So much for a couple of scenes from our walk in the village. Let’s say goodbye to the crowd and the Ari Village and slowly retreat towards the main street. Mastu must of course now again exhaust his entire spectrum of child defense measures and is more or less successful in doing so. The children take it for fun and are amused.
When we arrived at the car, it was quiet.
Now we continue in the direction of Key Afer, where a traditional wedding with a bull jumping ceremony is to take place nearby. We get the offer to participate. We must of course not miss this opportunity. With 600 birr per person we can participate and later we will be accompanied by a local guide.

Mörser

Before the adventure begins, we take the last opportunity of the day to have a meal and visit the Zarsi Hotel in Key Afer.

Zarsi Hotel - Key Afer - Ethiopia

Zarsi Hotel - Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 685 + 686: In the Zarsi Hotel in Key Afer

We sit relaxed in the shade of a large mango tree and have fun "talking" to the chickens and making fun of them. We have never seen such a busy flock of chickens. You can hardly describe how they rushed from the adjacent courtyard, cackling loudly, and surrounded the tables of the guests. Here you shouldn't leave the table unattended as long as there is something edible on the plates. There is nothing left, guaranteed. Our food is plentiful but unfortunately sometimes does not meet our taste. The chickens are of course extremely happy when we come to them to feed our leftovers, and a "tornado" of chickens arguing loudly comes running towards us.

Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 687: Can we do that with our minibus?

Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 688: On the way through impassable terrain to the Banna and / or Hamer

We don't know exactly where we're going now. After we have agreed to the deal, a guide gets into our minibus and constantly shows Alex the way. Alexr is put to a tough test and we are extremely amazed at what our minibus can withstand. It goes over hill and dale, up and down complicated stony slopes, through a river and incalculable water holes. Our initially wide sandy track becomes narrower and narrower after every turn, until it finally ends completely in the undergrowth. While Alex is getting beads of sweat on his forehead, our guide is very relaxed and just shows without a word where Alex should go. Sometimes you can't even look because the drive is so unsettling. But there is always a way to go a little further. It is also better not to open the window if you do not want to be brushed by the bushes. It's much too difficult to take photos with this wobble anyway.

Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 689 - 691: Now we continue on foot.

We drive about 18 km in less than an hour until we can’t go any further. Another tourist mobile is already at our parking position (damn shit :-(), but this vehicle is much better suited for the terrain than our minibus. But we have no reason to complain, because Alex is a master driver and our bus is much more spacious and We have to leave Alex behind because he has to guard the bus and our luggage for security reasons. Our guide informs us that we have to walk 30 minutes before we reach the location of the wedding ceremony. We have to go far too quickly run through very interesting terrain, but our guide sets the pace. He will know why. We don't want to miss the beginning of the ceremony.
A few minutes before we reach the scene, we can hear chants, bells and horns ringing in the distance. So the celebrations have already started.

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 692 - 705: In a Banna Village

When we arrive in the village, hardly any notice is taken of us. The people there are used to guests like us. Our guest gift in the form of an unknown part of our deal that we made with the guide is an additional and welcome source of income for the tribe. This allows us to move freely and without hesitation and to take as many photos as we want.
A group of women with numerous bells on their calves are circling a tree, stamping, singing and jumping. Small metal horns are always used to trumpet whatever it takes. Rifles and submachine guns should of course not be missing again. However, today we see armed women for the first time.

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Is the next bull jumping ceremony for Mastu?

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 706 - 716: At the Banna

For us it has still not been sufficiently clear how we can now distinguish the Banna from the Hamer. All jewelry and clothing elements that are familiar to us can be found in both the Banna and the Hamer. The manufacture of the hairstyle for women from thin braids, which are twisted with a mixture of red minerals and butter, can also be found in both tribes. Even the bull jumping ceremony that is taking place today as a maturity test for young men and part of a wedding ritual lasting several days is carried out by both tribes. But as we mentioned earlier, the Hamer are said to have emerged from the Banna.

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 717 - 727: At the Banna Tribe

It is noticeable that only a few men are currently in the settlement. Those who are there are cooking some kind of brew a little apart in large tin drums. Others, on the other hand, are busy filling the women with an alcoholic drink from large bottle gourds, which puts them a little in a trance during their dances and puts others in an exuberant mood. There is a constant supply and the emptied bottle gourds are lying around everywhere. This certainly helps a little to better endure the traditional flogging of women, which is still to come.

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Guests' hairstyles are also of interest.

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 728 - 738: With the Banna and their guests

After a break, the women look for a new route for their dances, which are more reminiscent of a march. It goes on like this for hours. March, pause, march, ... etc .. Their perseverance is remarkable. In the meantime, more and more men are arriving, who mostly come together in small groups for a quiet chat or watch the goings-on of the women. Others engage in ritual body painting in preparation for the bull jumping ceremony.

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Banna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 739 - 750: A guest of the Banna

The women's marches through the countryside are finally over when the arrival of the whip man is announced. Anyone who thinks now that the poor women are being whipped against their will because of some martial traditions is greatly mistaken. The women are downright crazy about it and argue who's next in line. We almost have the impression that the whip man would like to hide from the many requests for flogging. But the women do not give up. The more scars they will get and the more blood will flow, the more they can testify of their courage now and later. It is even said that after the whipping, certain agents are added to the wounds so that they become inflamed and lead to bulging scars. The more the scar can be seen, the more beautiful it is.

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Whiper - Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

The whip man

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Also a possibility to accommodate the money.

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 751 - 760: Flogging and quarrels of women

The official whipping man has a black transparent cloth on his head, as well as a long, stable and thin whip made of wood about 2 meters long. It is extremely stable and still breaks every now and then. But there is no shortage of such whips here. At some point even the women got hold of some whips, which they apparently would use in an argument among themselves about the order in which to be flogged. Others even use clubs. You don't want to get in between. We do not understand why this is so. Actually, there is enough time and if you want to be flogged, your turn will come. Especially since other men have also taken on the task of whip man in the meantime.
During the whipping, the woman stands opposite the whip man, so that both can look each other in the face and yet the extremely flexible whip reaches the back. Again and again the whip buzzes through the air and claps the backs of the women until they are finally all satisfied and calm down.

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 761 - 769: Guests of the Banna.

The Banna tribe (also Benna, Bena or Banya) has between 45,000 to 50,000 tribal members and still have their own king. Most of them are said to be Muslims. But there are also a few thousand Christians among them. Because of their way of life in the wilderness, the Banna do not own mosques and churches. But "natural religions" and belief in different spirits are also widespread. They live mainly in the lower valley of the Omo. Like all other ethnic groups in Ethiopia, the Banna have their own language, which is known as Hamar-Banna or Hamer-Banna.The Banna are mainly engaged in agriculture. They have numerous goats, cattle and camels and are particularly known for their honey production. To do this, they hang beehives in the acacia trees, just as other ethnic groups in Ethiopia do (see part 5, photos 354 + 355).

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

A banna with a wooden headrest that is used when sleeping.

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 770 - 772: Waiting for sunset and the bull jumping ceremony

Slowly the shadows are getting longer and the number of armed men keeps increasing. More and more cattle are also coming back to the village from their pastures. Everyone is now just waiting for the bull jumping ceremony, which should not take place until after sunset. As we learn, today's candidate is 18 years old and won't celebrate his actual wedding until a week later. Today's success in the bull jump is of course the prerequisite for this. For this purpose, at least 10 bulls are lined up next to each other, which are pulled and held in the correct position by the Banna by their horns and tails. Of course, that takes a while. Every now and then, a bull that is too restless has to be replaced because he busts out or simply cannot be brought into position. When all the bulls have finally calmed down, the young man, who is always completely naked, has to jump from a standing position onto the back of the first bull and then run over all the cattle lined up next to one another without falling. He has to do that four times without a mistake. He is supported by the women who once again circle the ceremony place with a lot of spectacle and singing loudly with their bells and horns.

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 773 - 779: The bull jump is being prepared.

Before the actual bull jump takes place, a few rituals and spells are performed in the presence of the bull jump candidate. Bangles are stacked on top of each other on a clapper stuck between several whips and overturned by two brightly painted seated Banna according to a certain scheme (see video). Unfortunately, we don't know for what purpose or what magic this is. Then a white sticky liquid is splashed that nobody wants to get off.
While the Banna are still fighting for their position with the bulls, today's bull jump candidate is ready and has got rid of all clothing. It seems to him to be visibly uncomfortable to have to wait as the only naked youth and future man for his commitment among all the other dressed people. So he is still looking for some cover behind a friend until the time has finally come.

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia
 
Image 780 - 783: Now it finally start.

After all, there are 12 bulls lined up next to each other that today's jumper has to deal with. Everything is ready. The young Banna jumps on the first bull and tries his luck. Then he crashes and falls between the animals. But this is no problem. The ceremony continues. When he crossed the bulls twice in each direction without mistakes, his test was passed. Now he has been admitted to the group of adults and can begin his wedding next week.

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Bull Jumping - Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 784 - 788: The bull jump

The young man is happy to have passed the ceremony and is being celebrated. Now it is probably going to the cozy part of the following night, which unfortunately we can no longer see because it is already getting dark. Mastu and our local guide urge us to hurry. We quickly leave the scene and race against the falling darkness. Every minute is precious now. After all, we still have a longer walk and a much longer drive through rough terrain ahead of us. This can be very difficult when it's really dark.

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Benna Village - Near Key Afer - Ethiopia

Image 789 + 790: On the way back to the parking position.

And here are a few more pictures for those who want to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the bull jumping ceremony.



Video: A few impressions from our visit to the Banna including a few impressions from the journey

Everything is still in order on the minibus and our luggage is still present. There were no special incidents. The most exhausting part of the day begins for Alex, but he had enough time to relax. ;-) The way there was already complicated enough, but the way back is even more difficult because of the increasing darkness. Fortunately, it gets a little better every few hundred meters until we reach the wide sandy track towards Key Afer again.
Now we just have to drop our guide in Key Afer and then continue towards Turmi to our lodge. We have chosen the Buska Lodge for this, which is located on a wide river valley. We will stay there for three nights before our route goes in the opposite direction again.
We arrive at our destination around 9:00 p.m., after having almost gotten stuck in the sand of another river bed a short time before. That would just have been missing. Fortunately, we were able to rescue our minibus from its predicament with combined muscle power.
It is high time we got to the lodge because the kitchen is about to close. Therefore we have to order the food before we go to our room. Now we can arrive in peace and take our quarters in possession. After returning to the restaurant, we no longer have to wait and it can be served immediately.
An eventful day is now coming to a relaxed end.

Tomorrow we will drive to Dimeka and explore two colorful markets and in the evening visit a Hamer village. In between there is some time to relax. We'll see what we can do with it.

Copyright: www.reggaestory.de
Photos: Marion & Peter Joachim
Text and videos: Peter Joachim
English version: Gabriele Brown

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