ETHIOPIA - THE SOUTH
A travel report - Part 6 06/05/2019 – From Konso to Jinka (09/28/2011 according to the Ethiopian calendar)
Today
we leave the Konso area and head north-west to Jinka. At around 300 km,
this will be one of the longest daily stages of our trip. There will
also be some unpaved road sections on this route. That's why there is
nothing on the program today ... except "The journey is the goal."
Nevertheless, we did not plan
our onward journey until around 9:00 a.m., so we can sort ourselves in
peace and have our breakfast in the beautiful outdoor area of the
restaurant with the twittering of birds. We don't even have water
problems this morning. As a precaution, we had prepared a few water
reserves in cans that we didn't need today. ;-)
Image 430: Kanta Lodge -
Konso
Image 431 - 433: View of the interior of our
bungalow Image 433: Passage to the sanitary area
with an extra roof
Now only Alex and Mastu have to arrive to pick us up. As is so often
the case with private tours in Ethiopia, the guide and driver do not
sleep in the same accommodation as the tourists, unless the price
category is adapted to local conditions.
Image 434: But you have a great
motorcycle!
Finally the time has come and we leave the Kanta Lodge until we will
pass here again in a few days on our way back. One last look at Gamole
and then we drive into an area that is new to us.
Image 435: Gamole from afar
As
is so often the case, there is once again a scenic route ahead of us to
be discovered, so it takes barely 20 minutes that we want to make
another stop.
Image 436 - 440:
About 20 minutes west of Konso Image 438:
Peanut cassia - Cassia didymobatrya can also be found under senna
(carob plant >> cassia) in the foreground of the image Image 439:
Always on a "trial course" with all plants
Only 10 minutes later we cross a large river bed, which in turn tempts
us to take a few closer exploratory walks.
Image 441: Google
Map -
River valley west of Konso - Simply click on the image or link and
continue exploring the location.
Image 442 - 450: River valley about 30 minutes
west of Konso Image 450: We are exposed. The children
have changed direction. ;-)
The numerous stones lying in the river bed are particularly attractive
for us, because we have already found one or the other beautiful
mineral in other similar places. Unfortunately we don't find anything
special this time. However, it is also not so easy for us to get to the
water with its scree field if we don't want to have our shoes filled
with mud already in the morning.
Image 451 + 452: Production of hollow concrete
blocks with river sand
River valleys like these are often used in Ethiopia to extract sand for
road construction and the construction industry or even for small craft
businesses that manufacture hollow concrete blocks right on the river.
Every now and then you can even see huge trucks that are even shoveled
full of sand over sacks and baskets by hand, unless an excavator is
available.
Image 453: And on it goes through the
beautiful landscape with many terraced fields.
Image 454: Any ride is welcome.
About 30 minutes later after our river bed exploration, our minibus
climbs up a mountain slope over numerous serpentines. We turn around
again and our eyes wander over a huge plain. Every now and then, the
noise of the engine of a truck, which penetrates from the depths to our
ears and at some point torments their way past our stopping point, is
annoying. It can of course take some time before the pleasant silence
returns, which then only belongs to the birds and the wind.
Image 455 - 460: On the way from Konso to Jinka
Even if there are no settlements to be found far and wide, a few
children quickly find their way here. This is a good opportunity to
lighten our clothes bag, which we have given to Mastu for distribution.
This unexpected surprise leaves the rather shy-looking children almost
speechless.
Image 461 - 463: The unexpected gift on the
roadside.
Let's continue before other children become aware of us and we may
trigger an argument. When it comes to gifts, it is always better if
there are not too many children.
Image 464 - 466: In addition to agriculture and
livestock farming, the timber trade on the streets in this area is
particularly noticeable.
After another 45 minutes of driving, a coffee break is planned. For
this, the village of Weyto
or Woyto (also Woito) fits very well into the process. On the roadside,
an inconspicuous sign "Welcome - Weyto Lodge" refers to this
opportunity. There are two ways of continuing in the village. If you
follow the asphalt road in a north-westerly direction, you get to Key
Afer and later to Jinka. If you want to go to Turmi, you have to turn
southwest onto a gravel road. Weyto is located at an altitude of 580 m
above sea level, in the Weyto Valley of the same name. This is part of
the Rift Valley. In the Weyto Valley the Weyto flows further south,
where it later flows into the Chew Bahir
Lake (also Lake Stephanie / Stefanie Lake). The river's water is used
to irrigate large cotton plantations that can be found in the area. In
the place and the surrounding area, mainly the Tsamai people live with
around 10,000 members. An interesting weekly market takes place here
every Saturday. But there were also people from Konso and Banna. Today
is Thursday, so unfortunately we cannot take this attraction with us.
Image 467 + 468: Small shops for daily needs
opposite the Weyto Lodge.
While our coffee still requires a while of work and thus waiting time,
a couple of beautiful Kenyan leather belts in a village shop are
calling us on the other side of the street. According to our
information, these belts are supposed to be made by the Maasai. The
works of art, embroidered with glass beads in a wide variety of colors
and patterns, will not be found anywhere else in the further course of
our journey. For 300 birr each, you really can't go wrong. Negotiating
is pointless anyway with the taciturn man.
Image 469: Gas station shortly before
Jinka - motorbike rush
We arrive in Jinka at around 1 p.m. We really didn't expect that.
Originally we wanted to visit a weekly market in Key Afer that day, but
today was not the right day of the week for that either. But we already
knew that before we left in the morning. We'll do that on another day.
But now it's time for a lunch break at Jinka's Besha
Gojo Restaurant. A very nice place for this purpose with
enough seating in the sun or in the shade, with or without a roof, just
as everyone wants.
Image 470 - 472: At the Besha Gojo restaurant
in Jinka
Jinka is well stocked with nice restaurants. If you have a lot of time
and spend several days in the city, you can definitely go on a
discovery tour. Jinka has over 30,000 inhabitants, which surprises us a
lot, because that's not how the place looks. To us, the place looks
more like a cozy small town. It is the capital of the Debub Omo Zone
and is about 1,490 meters above sea level.
Image 473 - 476: Mike from Addis with his
sticker collection
A film team has come to the restaurant and a man with a striking
appearance. But his car is even more eye-catching with thousands of
stickers. In the interior of the car, the picture continues in a
similar style. We are very interested in who that could be and we are
waiting for an opportunity to talk to him.
The man calls himself Mike and claims to appear occasionally as a
reggae artist. Of course we want to find out more about it and, if
possible, hear a sample. But he had just run out of CD-s. Unfortunately
he had to do something urgently now, but he would be back soon.
Image 477 + 478: Jinka
Mastu and Alex are here earlier than Mike is back, because the two
wanted to pick us up after the lunch break. They have a lot of fun when
they see our story and the pictures of Mike. The man is never an
artist, but a completely normal driver from Addis who takes on various
transport jobs. Mastu even has his number on his cell phone. You just
know each other here. Later we see Mike several times in town and Mastu
confronts him with our story. Mike was blown and would like to sink
into the ground. He doesn't even dare to look at us anymore. Still, the
story is funny. Now he drives through half the country and yet he is
recognized and exposed.
There is also a small ethnological museum in the city, which we would
like to see before we drive to our lodge.
The
SORC was founded in 1993 with significant support from the German
ethnologist Professor Ivo
Strecker
and the Max Planck Institute from Halle. Ivo Strecker led the SORC
until 2009 before it came under the control of the Institute of
Ethiopian Studies and the South Omo Zone Administration. The project is
headed by a board of six local and two international partners. These
include the Max Planck Institute for Social Anthropology from Germany,
the Center for African Studies at the University of Kyoto from Japan,
the Institute of Ethiopian Studies at the University of Addis Ababa,
the Culture, Tourism and Government Communication Department of the
South Omo Zone, the South Omo Zone Administration and the Mayor of
Jinka.
Image 480: SORC museum poster
The SORC has been part of Arba Minch University since April 2015 and
has been affiliated with Jinka University since June 2020.
Image 481 - 484: A look inside the South Omo
Research Center Museum Image 482: Arbore ethnic group exhibits Image 483: Exhibits from the Nyangatom
and Dassanech ethnic groups
In the museum you can also buy numerous postcards on the various
tribes, but unfortunately there are no postage stamps. The problem is
also known from other countries. Everyone wants to sell postcards to
tourists, but very few want to sell stamps. So they didn't do business
with us today. Today it just doesn't work out with the writing of
holiday greetings to the home, and for the remaining hours of the day
only "laziness" is the order of the day in the lodge, which has a lot
of nature to offer. From here to the lodge we only have to drive about
two kilometers.
Image 485:
Google
Map - Eco-Omo
Lodge - Simply click on the picture or link and continue exploring the
location.
This time the overnight stay in tents is on the program and we are
curious how they are equipped. Our fears in terms of contact with local
crawling animals and other unsightly things in the tents, however,
quickly dissipate, because the way in which these accommodations are
built and equipped offers a bit of security and comfort.
Image 486 - 490: The tents of the Eco-Omo Lodge
in Jinka
The tents have no contact with the ground and are erected on a sturdy
wooden frame. In addition, they are covered by an additional roof which
provides security against possible rain and falling things. The windows
are secured with insect screens. As a highlight of the whole thing,
there is even a massive sanitary cell that can be reached directly via
a door in the rear wall of the tent. So everything is perfect.
If that's too much luxury for you, you can of course pitch your own
tent.
Image 491 + 492: The very last flyer of the
lodge. Unfortunately, those who come after us won't get any. ;-)
After moving into our tents, we go on an extended and relaxed tour of
discovery through the extensive grounds of the lodge. Next to the tents
there is a great restaurant where you can sit either inside or outside
on a terrace with a beautiful view. There is even a massage pavilion
for people who suffered back pain during the tour or who have already
traveled to Ethiopia damaged. There is also an own laundry and a
nursery to supply the restaurant with numerous types of fruit and
vegetables.
Image 493 + 494: Restaurant and the river stone
pavement, which is not always pleasant to walk on. But it still looks
nice.
Image 495 - 499: Lots of green with interesting
plants in the Eco-Omo Lodge
Image 500 + 501: Would you like an Ethiopian
massage?
Image 502: The laundry with its end
products in various "whites". ;-)
The nursery has an extra fence but every visitor is welcome. If the
gardener is present, you can get information about the most varied of
cultivated plants and you can get one or the other seed for breeding at
home.
Image 503 + 504: Papaya trees
in front of the nursery
Image 505 - 507: The nursery of the Eco-Omo
Lodge Image 506: Pineapple Image 507: The white beans are said to be
the best. Very thin and extremely tender. We'll try that out.
The grounds of the lodge are framed by a river to the east. You can't
really go for a walk along the bank, but there is a path in the
adjacent forest through which you can reach the bank at one point.
Image 508 - 511: On the way to the river at the
Eco-Omo Lodge in Jinka Image 511: In the foreground a Spathodea
campanulata / African tulip
tree
Video: The Eco-Omo Lodge of Jinka
After the extensive exploration of the area, we only have the terrace
of the restaurant, where we can comfortably wait for the twilight and
the first mosquitoes in the area with a cold beer. For entertainment, a
few birds have also come to pose for our camera without hesitation.
When it comes to the selection of images, of course, we cannot decide
what to discard and what not to. Unfortunately, the birds themselves do
not have a say. ;-)
Image 512 - 517: The Speckled
mousebird (also known as brown-winged mousebird
or striped mousebird) that eats leaves as well as fruit.
The last official act of the day is dinner in our beautiful restaurant,
to which we will return later. The staff is not very busy, because here
too we are almost the only guests. In addition to our table, only two
other tables are occupied.
We'll meet again tomorrow at the reception desk, before we go to the
Mursi people and after that we will visit a very interesting market.
Copyright: www.reggaestory.de
Photos: Marion & Peter Joachim
Text and videos: Peter Joachim
English version: Gabriele Brown